Showing posts with label Antibes. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Antibes. Show all posts

Thursday, May 21, 2020

Bread: I Want To Make It With You

Ah. . . Bread.

No country in the world values bread like France. Today, bread is rarely baked inside a French home, as the country subsidizes and controls the price of their national treasure, the French baguette. You will find your daily baguette at a reasonable .99 euros at all boulangeries in France. During my last trip to Antibes, the shopkeeper wore an apron with a pocket to quickly return the one cent euro coin change. Well-prepared for high volume sales with low technology.

Bread is the origin of the word pantry, so frequently used in conversations today. The French word for bread is pain (pan) and after baking, ancient French homemakers would place the coveted poofs in a room or cupboard to retain freshness. Voila - a pantry!

Yeast is used to make bread rise, as well as making beer and wine. Cheers! Its use in making bread can be traced back to the Egyptians. Until World War II, when commercial dry yeast was introduced, bakers around the world relied on a homemade yeast or sour dough starter for their daily bread. In fact, homesteaders on the Oregon Trail carried their starter around their necks to retain its ambient temperature.

During this pandemic, dry yeast was one of the first products to go missing from grocery store shelves. That seemed like a good launching point to share my recipe for sour dough starter! You can find many recipes on the internet, but this one I made myself. It works - be patient. This uses simple ingredients, but it does take time; no muscle, just time. Flour is abundant on store shelves again so grab some whole wheat and bread flour. If possible, rye flour will be useful for future loaves to mix it up. You will need either rye or wheat with bread flour being essential in each loaf.

Sour dough starter begins with making a batch of starter called the mother. This will take 5 days to develop.

At the end of 5 days, you will test a spoonful of the mother to see if it floats. If it does, you will create a batch of leaven from the mother to use as an ingredient to make your first loaf of bread!

The mother remainder can continued to be fed for repeated baking of loaves, or it can be refrigerated and fed weekly to be kept alive for future baking. Just bring to room temp, feed over 5 days and you can create another leaven.

First, for baking it really is necessary to measure ingredients using a digital scale as shown in the photo. They cost $10-15 on Amazon. I converted the mother starter to tablespoons, so you can make that while you wait for delivery of your scale. You will love your scale! During this period, purchase your 3 types of flour mentioned above.

Here are the steps and tools:

Tools: digital scale and pot with lid to withstand 475 degree oven. Bowl or brotform to proof in refrigerator overnight, lame or sharp blade to score the loaf before baking. Link at end for Amazon proof bowl and lame like shown in photos.

Timeline:

5 days for mother starter to grow
1 day for loaf to shape and proof overnight in refrigerator
1 day to bake (actually bakes for 45-50 minutes)

Mother Starter:
Day 1
2 Tablespoons whole wheat or rye flour (best) or all purpose
4 Tablespoons bottled water NOT tap as the chemicals will prevent bacteria needed to grow.
When using a digital scale the conversion is:
25 grams flour
50 grams water

In a quart size glass jar combine above with a spoon and cover with a lid or I used a basket coffee filter. A reused plastic tub like Cool Whip works perfectly, too. Place in a dark warm place on kitchen counter on top of a towel if counter is stone or cold. You want ambient heat.

Days 2-4
At the same time each day add another 2T flour and 4T water to the jar and mix. Return to covered spot. This is called feeding the starter or mother.

Day 5
Before feeding, take a small spoon sample and drop it into a glass of room temp water. This can be from the tap but it can not be warm or cold. If the starter floats, you can start making the leaven for bread. If it drops to the bottom, feed the starter again, and repeat the test the next day. You can not make the leaven until the mother floats. It can take a day or 2 more.

Make the Leaven - early in day as it need 3 hours to rest

Once the sample floats, you will remove from the mother starter jar add these ingredients into a bowl on your digital scale. Leftover leaven can be refrigerated for later use. Just bring to room temp before repeating the recipe steps below.

25 grams of mother starter
100 grams of bottled water NO tap
50 grams bread flour
50 grams wheat OR rye flour
Combine and let sit on the counter covered for 3 hours.

Mix the Bread Dough

One loaf (double for 2)

100 grams of the leaven you just made
300 grams bread Flour
200 grams wheat or rye flour
375 grams room temp bottled water (if cool heat briefly in microwave to 98 degrees)

Mix the above measured ingredients with a spoon or your hands for 3 minutes just to consolidate all the flour and water. Cover and let rest for 30 minutes. It is very sticky. SET A TIMER.

Add at this mixing period add:
13 grams table salt
Blend the salt into the mixture by hand until you can no longer feel the grit. It is still very sticky. About 4 minutes.

Ferment Period - About 4 hours 

Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and set timer for 30 minutes.

When the timer goes off you will now be doing four turns of the dough inside its bowl by pulling it up onto itself. Think of it as north, south, east, west. This folding over a period of the next 2 hours is the equivalent of kneading traditional dry yeast bread. For sour dough starter bread this is called fermenting.

Second turn: After 30 minutes uncover the dough and make the 4 turns. Recover. Set timer 30 minutes. Dough will begin to be less sticky. Yeah!

Third turn: same.

Fourth turn: set the timer for 2 hours.

When the 2 hour rest period timer goes off, now you will begin the shaping process as you ready the dough to be put in the refrigerator overnight.

Remove the dough from the bowl and place on work surface. Cover with a towel and rest it 30 minutes.

Now, add some wheat flour on the surface just a little so it doesn't stick. Make 4 folds onto itself north, south, east, west. Move the blob of dough away from the edge of the surface. You will now roll the blob onto itself as you roll it toward you. You are shaping it into a very round ball keeping the dough as tight as possible. Do this about 4 times so you don't overwork the dough. You are creating air pockets inside the tight ball that will rise when you bake it.

Lightly sprinkle some flour inside the proofing bowl or the bowl you will use for overnight proofing in the refrigerator. Place the tightened dough ball inside the bowl. Cover with a towel and let it sit on counter for 30 minutes.

Put Dough to Bed

Final preparation step:
Sprinkle a little flour on top of the dough ball in the brotform (shown) or bowl, cover with plastic wrap, and place the bowl in the refrigerator for 12-14 hours.

Bake the Loaf

Remove bowl dough from refrigerator and let it sit for 30 minutes while preheating oven and pot with lid on in oven at 475 degrees 30 minutes. The pot and lid need to be the same temperature as the oven before you add the dough. After 30 minutes, ease the dough onto a sheet of parchment paper so the bottom of the dough that was in the bottom of the bowl will now be the top of the bread. Gently score your dough with a lame or sharp knife in any shape you would like. This helps the bread release air pockets. If you do not score, the bread will create its own release by bursting a bit.

Quickly take out the preheated pot and cover - it will be VERY HOT and steamy when you release the top of the preheated pot so be careful. Quickly place the parchment paper with the dough on it inside the steaming pot. Close the lid and return to the 475 degree oven. Set the timer for 25 minutes. Quickly open the oven and remove the lid from the pot. Set timer for 15 minutes. At that buzzer turn the pot inside the oven and turn it 180 degrees. Set the timer for 12 minutes. When the buzzer goes off the bread is done! Allow it to cool on a rack 30 minutes before cutting.

Looks professional! Roasted artisan sour dough bread.

Samples of digital scales from Amazon see link below.

The Mother Starter must float to be ready to mix into leaven.

Measure by grams for perfect bread. So easy!

Dough after turn and resting 30 minutes.

Dough resting after 4 turns and 2 hour rest. 

Dough after rolling into a tight ball. Very little flour used.

Dough placed in brotform for overnight rest.

Dough after 25 minute bake lid just removed.

Proofing basket and lame and digital scales on Amazon when back in stock Amazon proof and lame


Sunday, March 3, 2019

Fat Tuesday: Crêpes Easy Any Day from the Big Easy

A crêpe is the singular food item that literally launches you to another place and time. Few of us had the pleasure of eating this delightful pillow of magic in our homes growing up. This weekend in New Orleans, Brennan's, the restaurant famous for breakfast since 1946, will be serving their Strawberry Crêpes Fitzgerald (see below) for many Mardi Gras revelers. During my breakfast at Brennan's in the mid 1990s, I witnessed my first and only Heimlich maneuver. It was successful. The restaurant came to a complete stop, and the gentleman continued his meal like nothing happened. Memorable.

Crêpes are so exotic! Yet, they are very easy to cook, and you will make magical memories for family and friends. Crêpes can be a meal, a dessert, sweet or savory served at any day part. They are a quick, light meal that looks and tastes decadent.

Grab that non-stick pan you used for making your easy, delicious Julia Child omelettes, and you will be the hero of the kitchen in no time.

As Julia reminded us in the video I posted on her Queen of Sheba cake, the first step we all need to do is read the recipe. Even with her expertise and years of cooking, she understood how so many cooks think they remember the recipe from repetition. We don't. Take a moment to review the recipe to ensure you have all the ingredients.

Crêpes a la Donna (as pictured here from my time in Provence) makes about 6 - 8 inch can double for more

Ingredients:

(Important - combine, not whip, by hand in non-metal bowel and let rest on counter for 30 minutes before cooking. Should be the consistency of heavy cream not pancake batter.)

2 eggs
2/3 of a cup all purpose flour
1 cup milk
1 tablespoon melted butter
1 tablespoon sugar
pinch of salt

Method:

After resting batter for 30 minutes, prep a non-stick pan on stove over medium heat.
Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in pan and wipe excess butter out with paper towel (save that towel for wiping pan after each crêpe). You don't want visible butter in the pan just a coating.
Ladle batter quickly into pan just enough to make a thin crêpe.
Quickly swish the batter around the pan to make an even circle.
Leave undisturbed until you see edges begin to brown and center firm up.
Using your fingers or the edge of a spatula, turn the crêpe over to lightly brown the other side.
Remove to cooling plate before filling.
Take the paper towel with excess butter and wipe the pan before making the next crêpe.

Like pancakes, the first crêpe will not be as pretty as the rest so don't get discouraged.

You can make a batch of crêpes ahead of time and freeze them with a layer of saran wrap in between each one and zip lock.

The photo below has Nutella spread lightly on the inside and outside. For savory suggestions mushrooms and cheese are perfect. Other toppings and fillings are plain sugar with fresh lemon or orange squeezed lightly. You can add any fruit such as strawberries, bananas, blueberries, peaches or plums. If you use apples or pears, you should peel and soften them by heating in a pan with a bit of sweetener for a few minutes.

To serve, fold into a quarter circle and add a sprinkle of powder sugar as the final magic dust.

Crêpes Fitzgerald from Brennan's New Orleans Cookbook, told by Hermann B. Deutsch, 1964, New Orleans, page 211.

2 crêpes
2 heaping teaspoons cream cheese
2 tablespoons sour cream
1/2 cup strawberries
sugar
butter
strawberry liqueur
kirsch

Roll cream cheese and sour cream in crêpes and put on plate. In a chaffing dish, cook strawberries in sugar and butter. Flame in strawberry liqueur and kirsch and pour over crêpes. 1 serving.

Donna's Note: above flaming technique not for the faint of heart take precautions or omit by just heating the liqueurs in pan to release some of the alcohol.

Bon Appétit!

My perfect crêpe served at a café in Antibes, France