Tuesday, March 26, 2019

Meaty Ragú alla Venice almost 30 minutes

When you need to please your carnivores, here is a perfect, authentic Italian ragú that has a few more ingredients including ground meat. I am sharing this wonderful recipe I prepared in Clara's charming home in Venice, and she was the ideal chef to help me cook this hearty Venetian ragú.

I did not speak Italian, she spoke a little English, and we both shared a few phrases in French. Our morning began with a bit of pantomime, a huge helping of Google translate on Clara's iPad, and gobs of laughs! We became life-long friends over the delicious food we made on her huge marble table and cozy kitchen ensemble.

The love of cooking expresses itself effortlessly in all languages, doesn't it? Julia and Paul Child found that to be true when they moved to France, Germany, and Norway in the 1950s, and I was lucky enough to find it in an off the beaten path neighborhood in Venice, thanks to Clara.

When I pulled out my iPhone to snap our processes, Clara clearly said, "No photos - cook!" Always the good student, I had to comply. And, this was very hands on with just the two of us preparing ragú, fresh pasta, and tiramisu (easy link to that post recipe after the last picture).

The ragú assembly will take about 10 minutes, and then it will cook at medium heat for 30 minutes while you prepare pasta or polenta. We made fresh Tagliatelle pasta, and I will post that recipe soon. It will deserve your full attention. Clara showed me the tip of boiling water in an electric kettle before  adding it to your pasta pot. Saves at least 5 minutes cooking time. So smart!

Like the meatless ragú recipe, these few ingredients highlight their individual flavors. I like that it makes just enough for one meal instead of making a tank full that lasts days.

NOTICE: NO GARLIC (not a mistake)

Meaty Ragú alla Clara

Ingredients:  Serves 4

1/2 cup diced celery
1/2 cup diced carrots
1/4 cup diced shallot (or onion)
Olive oil for pot
3/4 pound ground sirloin or combination beef and pork (needs a little fat)
1/4 cup red wine (something you would serve to drink with this meal, Chianti or Amarone)
1/2 bottle of passata (12 ounces a whole bottle is 24) this is uncooked tomatoes
1 tablespoon tomato paste
2 tablespoons butter


Method:

Grind celery, carrots, and shallot in a food processor.
Add 4 pips of olive oil in a pot turn to medium heat.
Add the processed vegetables.
Cook 3 minutes.
Add ground beef and brown over medium heat.
Once browned add red wine and reduce heat a bit.
Cook 2 minutes.
Add 1/2 bottle passata tomatoes and the tomato paste. (if too thick you can add more passata now)
Cook 30 minutes until dense and stir periodically.

Add a folded piece of parchment paper or wax paper between the pot and a loose lid. French cooks call this a cartouche, and they use it in place of a lid. Clara did not call it that though, and she used it in conjunction with the lid. Don't put the lid on the whole pot just cover it a bit to avoid steaming. The paper will keep the ragú from splattering, and it will control evaporation.

After 30 minutes, add salt and pepper to taste. Turn off heat.

Add the butter to the ragú before serving allowing it to melt on its own. Lightly blend it in then.


First bridge, second in background to cross on my walk to Clara's Venice home
Chef Clara
Marble work surface ready for pasta production

Tiramisu
Dark Italian Coco powder - lots! Recipe on my post click here:
Donna's Tiramisu post recipe

Friday, March 22, 2019

Meatless Friday: Real Ragù 4 Ingredients in 30 minutes

In Verona, Italy chef and cookbook author, Maria Cristina Tabacchi (shown here) explained to our class that every region of Italy has their own custom for making Ragù or tomato sauce. In the south, sauce cooks all day creating more density and sweetness, as opposed to this northern version that cooks quickly with fewer ingredients highlighting the rich tomato taste.

Across the country, Ragù is traditionally served on Sunday, though this Ragù comes together so quickly it is perfect any day! During this Lenten season, meatless meal ideas take center stage. This recipe is so easy and quick you will never purchase ready made jar sauce again!

Chef Cristina's philosophy is the fewer the ingredients, the better each flavor can be showcased. You will agree!

Verona Ragù


Ingredients: (4 generous servings)

Passata bottle (690g)
1 tablespoon olive oil
3 cloves of one bulb garlic chopped or smashed
8 basil leaves or 1/2 teaspoon dried if desperate

Salt and pepper to taste

Method:

Note: Various Passata brands shown like the one below can be found near the can tomatoes at the grocery. Passata is uncooked tomato sauce requiring cooking. Can tomato sauce is precooked and doesn't taste as fresh.

Heat oil medium heat in frying pan to create a larger cooking surface than a pot. Add garlic chopped or smashed and heat, but do not brown it will become bitter. Add 4 basil leaves. If using dried wait and add dried with passata. One minute or less.

Add bottle of Passata, stir and heat until it bubbles. Add dried basil if not using fresh. Reduce heat to medium. Salt and pepper to taste. Add 4 more basil leaves to sauce before serving. Cook 25 minutes.

During this time cook pasta. A quick tip is first heat water in an electric water kettle. This will boil in 4 minutes as opposed to stove taking at least 7 minutes. Pour hot water into pot, add hearty sprinkle of salt to water and prepare pasta as direct.

Delish!



Raw tomato passata small fresh garlic bulbs compared to one large store garlic bulb

Chef Maria Cristina Tabacchi


Verona Italy cooking school

Monday, March 18, 2019

Aldi & Trader Joe's: Carnaroli Rice, Wine and more in France, Italy, Ireland, and Your Neighborhood!

Aldi Ireland was a familiar site driving through Cavan town in 2017. I stopped to grab bottled water and to checkout the offerings. Known for modest prices, limited, specific stock choices, and little advertising the German-based grocery store with gross revenue above $50 billion (10 times more than McDonald's gross revenue) has been in the U.S. since 1976. Three years after arriving on our shores, they sent over their offspring, Trader Joe's. If you were unaware of their relationship, now you know, and you can give parent Aldi their due respect!

The Irish Aldi had similarities to the U.S. family and fascinating differences as well. First, the eggs  are not refrigerated as in most European  grocery stores. There is science for that which I will skip, just know it's safe. You can purchase magazines and newspapers along with the usual fare and local favorites like a full line of Cadbury products cookies, candy, and hot chocolate. Their shopping cart system requires a refundable 2 euro coin unlike the 25 cent coin here. Foreigners beware!

At the Verona, Italy Aldi I purchased so many goodies I had to make three trips. Complete with a 0,50 euros coin operated modern espresso machine in store (shown here),  I found Italian carnaroli rice, used in my risotto cooking class in Verona for 1,89 euros for 1kg. On Amazon, a box this size sells for $10 or more. The wine selection was so vast they handed out this 67-page booklet. . . I'm still reading it!

Aldi in Grasse, France, had its own unique twists. I am certain they offered more wine than food items. The selection and quality of cheese surpassed the many shops in tony Antibes, AND they had golden fresh croissants. I could not pass up these almonds sold under the Trader Joe's brand. Like Italy, France carried my favorite Dolce brand of LavAzza ground coffee not available for sale in the U.S. I grabbed a few bags at 2,79 euros knowing they would pass TSA inspection.

Today, Aldi has 1,600 stores in the U.S. and a growing presence in suburban areas including a recently announced partnership to open inside some Kohl's locations. Now, every trip to my local Aldi takes me back to great memories of my European shopping sprees, as I pack up my goodies in my Aldi Italy grocery bag.

People collect Trader Joe's reusable grocery bags ($1) from different cities in the U.S. It's a thing. I bought the TJ's Chicago bags for Christmas gift bags, and they were quite popular and practical. I was happy I picked up this bag from Italy (1 euro) and regret not buying them in France and Ireland. When you are lucky enough to find yourself in a foreign city, look up Aldi and stop in for your memory shopping bag, and I bet you will find treasures to fill it up!

Wine Italy booklet 67 pages in-store selections 

Espresso coffee machine inside Aldi Verona Italy
LET'S PETITION TO BRING TO USA!
Aldi perfect cappuccino for 0,50 euros!

Only 1 euro buy a few!!


Grasse, Provence, France

France selling Trader Joe's almonds

Aldi's sold Dolce by LavAzza in Italy, France 




Saturday, March 16, 2019

French Spin: Italian Zeppole or St. Joseph's Day Cakes

Tuesday, March 19th, marks the feast of Saint Joseph, San Giuseppe in Italian, considered the patron saint of fathers, carpenters, AND pastry chefs. Let's bake! The holiday dates back to the 10th century when during the Middle Ages in Sicily he was credited for ending a devastating drought. In gratitude, Sicilians honored Saint Joseph with a great feast.

In 1621, March 19th, was officially declared Saint Joseph's feast day by Pope Gregory XV. Baked sweets are a hallmark of celebrating this great day in Italy and in homes by people who wish they were in Italy. . .  like chez moi!

The most well-known treats are Zeppole, which translates to St. Joseph cakes. You will find recipes vary from Sicily to northern Italian speaking areas including Croatia. I was drawn to the Naples area recipe thought to be linked to wealthy families that hired French cooks in the 1800s.

All Zeppole recipes have a pastry shaped donut as the base, and this particular recipe begins with a French-style pâte á choux dough. Don't let the fancy name scare you away! Even my mother, a professed not-much-of-a-cook, made delicious eclairs or cream puffs - they are that easy. If you have eaten a French cruller, you have eaten the fried version of pâte á choux.

Zeppole Shells (or Eclairs, Cream puffs)

Preheat oven 425 first 15 minutes reduce to 375 last 25

Makes 8-11

Ingredients: these shells, box of pudding vanilla or Hershey's white chocolate, cherry or jam, powder sugar

Read entire recipe first.

Gather in stove-top pot and bring to boil:

1/2 cup water
1/2 cup milk
1 stick salted butter
1 tablespoon sugar

Later will need
1 cup flour
4 eggs

Remove boiling mixture from heat and add 1 cup of flour quickly using a spoon. No whisk.

Return to heat briefly until dough forms a ball while stirring. This cooks the raw flour. One minute. 

Then quickly remove from heat and stir in 4 eggs one at a time.  This will take arm power. Two minutes.

Dough will be sticky and shining. Take a large spoon full of dough and place on parchment paper lined cookie sheet or silicone baking mat as in this photo. I made 11 here. You can make larger or smaller. Keep size similar whatever you choose.

Bake at 425 for 15 minutes reduce heat to 375 for 25 minutes or until brown. If smaller shells reduce the 25 minutes to 20 or so keeping eye on color. Don't undercook though.

While baking prepare a box of vanilla pudding of your choice according to directions. Chill 5-10 minutes. I used Hershey's white chocolate. YUM!

Remove shells from oven and prick each one with a pin (or I used corncob holder here) to let air escape to reduce collapse. Allow to cool completely about 30 minutes.

Cut out a circle size piece of the shell with small knife. Fill with a small spoon of pudding or split in half. Top with a cherry (left side here) or a spot of jam. I used lingonberry from Ikea here (on right side).  Dust with powder sugar.

Squisito!



Left topped with a cherry. Right topped jam!
Raw dough pre-bake

Just out of oven prick with corncob holder or pin.





Sunday, March 10, 2019

Baileys Irish Cream Desserts for St. Patrick's Day: Even Julia McWilliams Child Would Approve

Imagine my delight to see Baileys Irish Cream for sale in this window of a tiny grocery store on a remote "Calle" in Venice's Ospedale neighborhood. . . from my people! The area had 3 retail shops and a lovely, small cafe literally in the middle of nowhere. I had to snap this picture. Notice, I only purchased water, well, and coffee grounds, but that's another blog post.

The world's supply of cream used to make Baileys Irish Cream comes from County Cavan, Ireland the birthplace of my great-grandparents Mary Reilly and Mathew Sheridan. The Glanbia plant shown here is located in Virginia, County Cavan, the village next to their homes in Ballyjamesduff. The Irish word for milk, bán-chia, translates as white meat, which explains the importance this food source is in the Irish diet. They have many, happy, grass-fed cows.

County Cavan is known as the land of lakes (loughs) about 365, one for every day of the year. Located 45 miles northwest of Dublin, people say it is a 45-minute drive from the airport, but it takes me a wee bit longer! You should book a vehicle with GPS (that accent can be tricky) and automatic transmission so you can concentrate on driving on the other side of the road. It isn't as scary as it sounds!

In Virginia, I've stayed at the Virginia Park Lodge, which has been transformed into an amazing wedding venue. It is owned by Michelin-rated chef and cookbook author, Richard Corrigan. Cookery classes are offered periodically and special occasion meals. Do not miss a stop here! Arrangements may be limited. You can view this lovely property at https://www.virginiaparklodge.com

Another great option is staying in Cavan town about 5 miles north of Ballyjamesduff at the Cavan Crystal Hotel with their award-winning restaurant, Opus One. If you sign up for their newsletter you will be offered local discount savings. You can see for yourself at: https://www.cavancrystalhotel.com

I am sharing two very easy, quick desserts you can throw together for your St. Patrick's Day festivities. Adults only! If you have children to serve, you can make these recipes without using the Baileys.


Baileys in Venice store window

Glanbia Virginia Ireland Baileys 'Cream' Factory
Baileys Brownies 


Baileys Brownies (even Julia McWilliams Child would love!)
Serves 9

Ingredients

1 box of your favorite brownie mix
1 8 ounce thawed container regular Cool Whip
1 shot glass full of Baileys Irish Cream or 1.5 ounces
Hershey's syrup to decorate top

Method

Prepared and bake brownie mix as directed in an 8 X 8 pan.
Cool completely about 1 hour.
When cooled make holes in brownie with a straw or chop stick.
Take the shot glass of Irish cream and spread over brownie to go into holes.
Cover with container of Cool Whip.
Decorate top with streams of Hershey's.
Cool in refrigerator overnight or 6 hours.

Sláinte!


Bailey-os:   No Bake Baileys Oreo Layer Cake Magic
Serves 8-12

Ingredients

1 - 14 oz package of original Oreo cookies
2 - 8 oz containers of thawed Cool Whip
4 shot glasses of Baileys Irish Cream or 6 ounces  (2/3 cup)

Method

Container of your choice. Glass preferred. Size will determine number of layers. Read all the instructions below to determine the size of container needed to hold your ingredients. A glass 9 X 12 will work, too, just fewer layers. Metal or foil containers fine, too, just not as pretty.

Prepare filling by adding Baileys to bowl. Take one tablespoon size amount of Cool Whip and in small amounts incorporate the Cool Whip into the Baileys. Slowly you will allow the liquid to fold into the Cool Whip. Don't over beat or you will deflate the Cool Whip. Set aside.

A little math required.

Open package of cookies and separate tops from bottoms. Keep frosted no frost separate. There will be about 36 cookies and once separated you will have 72 pieces. That's the hardest part!

Take the no frosting cookies and line container. Count how many you used. Divide that amount into 72 and that will tell you how many layers you can make. Here's an example:

If 12 cookies were used for the bottom. Divided into 72 equals 6. You can have 6 layers total. With one layer for topping, you will have 5 layers to top with the Irish cream flavored Cool Whip.

Divide your Cool Whip into 5 servings just using a knife in the bowl. Spoon Cool Whip on top of cookies. Repeat using frosted cookies first until the top. The top layer of cookies should be unfrosted and crushed and sprinkled on top.

Cover with plastic wrap and chill in refrigerator overnight. The cookies will become moist like cake from the Cool Whip!

Sláinte!

1/2  Batch Bailey-os Place Baileys in Bowl
Lightly Wisk in Cool Whip


Layer Separated Oreos Glass Bread Pan = 1/2 Batch

Top Before Adding Crushed Cookies Below

Yum!

Thursday, March 7, 2019

Cure Onion Tears? Got a Match?

You can hardly find a recipe that doesn't call for chopped onion. Even Julia Child, when describing the mounds of onions she had to chop during her six months at Le Cordon Bleu in Paris in the 1950s (and humorously depicted in the 2009 Nora Ephron film Julie & Julia) was known to claim there was no way to avoid the tears - just man up.

Mais non - not any more!

When you place 2-3 wooden matches in your mouth with the tip facing the cutting surface you can cut a few onions without tears! You can see the method demonstrated in the photo below, but add more matches. The match heads somehow absorb the sulfuric compounds emitted from the onions.

The difficulty will be having wooden matches handy.  The photo shows my great find from a local dollar store - a 10-pack of match boxes! These are clever, inexpensive hostess gifts to bring to your family and friends at your next meal celebration so stock up. Once you try this experiment you will want to share this "tip" literally with everyone!

That's a match. . .


Sunday, March 3, 2019

Fat Tuesday: Crêpes Easy Any Day from the Big Easy

A crêpe is the singular food item that literally launches you to another place and time. Few of us had the pleasure of eating this delightful pillow of magic in our homes growing up. This weekend in New Orleans, Brennan's, the restaurant famous for breakfast since 1946, will be serving their Strawberry Crêpes Fitzgerald (see below) for many Mardi Gras revelers. During my breakfast at Brennan's in the mid 1990s, I witnessed my first and only Heimlich maneuver. It was successful. The restaurant came to a complete stop, and the gentleman continued his meal like nothing happened. Memorable.

Crêpes are so exotic! Yet, they are very easy to cook, and you will make magical memories for family and friends. Crêpes can be a meal, a dessert, sweet or savory served at any day part. They are a quick, light meal that looks and tastes decadent.

Grab that non-stick pan you used for making your easy, delicious Julia Child omelettes, and you will be the hero of the kitchen in no time.

As Julia reminded us in the video I posted on her Queen of Sheba cake, the first step we all need to do is read the recipe. Even with her expertise and years of cooking, she understood how so many cooks think they remember the recipe from repetition. We don't. Take a moment to review the recipe to ensure you have all the ingredients.

Crêpes a la Donna (as pictured here from my time in Provence) makes about 6 - 8 inch can double for more

Ingredients:

(Important - combine, not whip, by hand in non-metal bowel and let rest on counter for 30 minutes before cooking. Should be the consistency of heavy cream not pancake batter.)

2 eggs
2/3 of a cup all purpose flour
1 cup milk
1 tablespoon melted butter
1 tablespoon sugar
pinch of salt

Method:

After resting batter for 30 minutes, prep a non-stick pan on stove over medium heat.
Melt 1 tablespoon of butter in pan and wipe excess butter out with paper towel (save that towel for wiping pan after each crêpe). You don't want visible butter in the pan just a coating.
Ladle batter quickly into pan just enough to make a thin crêpe.
Quickly swish the batter around the pan to make an even circle.
Leave undisturbed until you see edges begin to brown and center firm up.
Using your fingers or the edge of a spatula, turn the crêpe over to lightly brown the other side.
Remove to cooling plate before filling.
Take the paper towel with excess butter and wipe the pan before making the next crêpe.

Like pancakes, the first crêpe will not be as pretty as the rest so don't get discouraged.

You can make a batch of crêpes ahead of time and freeze them with a layer of saran wrap in between each one and zip lock.

The photo below has Nutella spread lightly on the inside and outside. For savory suggestions mushrooms and cheese are perfect. Other toppings and fillings are plain sugar with fresh lemon or orange squeezed lightly. You can add any fruit such as strawberries, bananas, blueberries, peaches or plums. If you use apples or pears, you should peel and soften them by heating in a pan with a bit of sweetener for a few minutes.

To serve, fold into a quarter circle and add a sprinkle of powder sugar as the final magic dust.

Crêpes Fitzgerald from Brennan's New Orleans Cookbook, told by Hermann B. Deutsch, 1964, New Orleans, page 211.

2 crêpes
2 heaping teaspoons cream cheese
2 tablespoons sour cream
1/2 cup strawberries
sugar
butter
strawberry liqueur
kirsch

Roll cream cheese and sour cream in crêpes and put on plate. In a chaffing dish, cook strawberries in sugar and butter. Flame in strawberry liqueur and kirsch and pour over crêpes. 1 serving.

Donna's Note: above flaming technique not for the faint of heart take precautions or omit by just heating the liqueurs in pan to release some of the alcohol.

Bon Appétit!

My perfect crêpe served at a café in Antibes, France