Saturday, September 14, 2019

Ireland: Spuds and Stars (of the Michelin Variety)

I am the odd bird that cannot sleep on an airplane. Even as a passenger on a first class Cathay Pacific flight in a pod the size of a small apartment complete with a cozy bed, toasty pajamas, and unlimited Johnnie Walker Blue, I arrived in Hong Kong 16 hours later looking and feeling like a cargo-hold stowaway.

On my first trip to Ireland in 2001, I arrived in a similar catatonic state as I drove with my son towards Waterford on the wrong side of the road in a manual transmission car. Yes, that means shifting with your left hand and foot. I recall very little of that harrowing experience, but I remember in specific detail the very first meal I ate in a village pub on the outskirts of Wicklow.

The lunch special was beef and potatoes and the platter arrived piping hot smothered in dark, delicious gravy and beef. Next to the mound of whipped mashed potatoes was a stack of roasted potatoes. Apparently in this land famous for spuds serving multiple styles of their favorite root vegetable was not unusual. It also explained my mother's habit of serving mashed potatoes along with rice when she made beef chop suey!

Back then, Ireland did not have a reputation for great cuisine. Even Starbucks did not arrive in Ireland until 2005, so finding a thimble of espresso was a challenge. Over the years, with the global trend towards slow food and the farm-to-table movement, this land of shamrocks and grass-fed beef has emerged as a hub of gastronomic delight.

With this transition, the country has wisely taken their assets on the road by growing their food export segment. In 2017, Ireland became the first EU country to sell beef to China and their exportation of dairy and beef recently exceeded 100 million euros. Cathay Pacific launched seasonal service four times weekly between Dublin and Hong Kong last year. Beyond this expanding global demand in the Irish agri-food sector, visitors can now experience excellent cuisine throughout the island.

Since the 1990s, the number of Michelin-rated restaurants in Ireland grew from 6 to 16, with the restaurant Patrick Guilbaud in Dublin being the highest rated and longest tenured on the list. Open for lunch and dinner the prices are modest compared to other 2-star rated restaurants around the world. You can see for yourself at the link below. Interestingly, the word potato is not on this menu. 

Restaurant Patrick Guilbaud

Another export item, Irish cheese is on par with the some of the very best French cheese. Ireland produces more mozzarella cheese than Italy. In Dublin, Sheridans Cheesemongers has an amazing selection from local farmers as well as special international producers. They will cryo-pack your selection of hard cheeses for safe and TSA approved international travel to the USA. This tiny cheese emporium is a must see stop while touring Dublin or visiting their larger country shop in County Meath.

Sheridans Cheesemongers

Ireland is a quick overnight flight from the USA, and you can launch to the European mainland easily from the international airport in Dublin. The next time you head to Paris, London, Rome or Copenhagen add a few days in this amazing country to savor the memorable meals and more.

Starbucks finally landed in Ireland in 2005